What is the swell period in surfing?

• The amount of time it takes for two successive wave crests to pass through a determined point is called swell period or wave interval. The swell period is critical surf knowledge because it ultimately measures the quality of the upcoming surf session. High quality waves – from ground swells – are generated in open ocean, hundreds of miles offshore.

What is swell in surfing terms?

Swell is energy that has been transferred into the sea by wind. The longer and stronger the wind blows (like a hurricane) the more energy that is transferred and so larger the swell. This energy then propagates from where it is created out into the ocean, much like ripples in a pond.

What is a good swell for surfing?

Swell size The size of the wave, or swell height, is a measure in feet or meters. If the surf forecast says 1-3m (3-9ft), then it’s usually a good time to go surfing. 3m waves are not appropriate for beginners, but experienced surfers take on waves of incredible height.

What are some surfing terms?

Speak like a surfer? 40 surfing terms and phrases you should know

• Wipeout. The act of falling from your board when riding a wave.
• Leggie. A legrope or lease.
• Pocket. The area of the wave that’s closest to the curl or whitewash.
• Thruster.
• Kook.
• Cutback.
• Punt/Aerial.
• Onshore/Offshore.

What is a sponger in surfing?

Sponger– A bodyboarder. Locals– The surfers who live nearby and frequent a certain spot. They’re often known for being unfriendly to outsiders. Goofy– A goofyfoot is someone who rides with his right foot forward.

Is swell good for surfing?

In general groundswell produces waves that are much better for surfing. Wind swell is usually smaller, and almost always choppier and harder to surf than groundswell. Although both are present at most surf spots, groundswell creates much better breaking waves and dominates the lineup.

What is a surfer girl called?

There is no specific term for a female surfer. You can call a girl who surfs just “surfer”, although, there are terms like gurfer, wahine that are used to refer to a female surfer.

What is the difference between a swell and a wave?

Waves are generated by wind moving over water; they indicate the speed of the wind in that area. Swell are waves (usually with smooth tops) that have moved beyond the area where they were generated.

Why do surfers surf in the morning?

Wind in the morning is usually lightest, meaning many surfers try to get up early and hit the waves as soon as they can. This is a good idea because wind can destroy waves for surfing, especially small ones. This is because the wrong wind can make waves break less evenly and become more difficult for surfing.

What is a good wave height for beginner surfers?

What size waves are best for beginner surfers? As a beginner, you should start by practising on small white water waves ( 1-2 feet high ) and only move on to catching the bigger waves when you feel ready.

Why do surfers say gnarly?

Gnarly means “treacherous.” An acceptable synonym is “hairy.” Surf punks use gnarly to refer to any wave over two feet or any woman of prodigious size.

What do surfers call waiting for a wave?

When paddling out to the Line-up, a surfer has to overcome a stretch where all waves have just broken. This can be particularly tough on a beach where waves break everywhere. They sometimes have to wait for a break in between waves to get a little further. This is also called “ being inside” or “being caught inside”.

How do surfers say cool?

Exclamatory slang It’s an exclamation of zeal, also meaning cool or impressive (i.e. “that bottom turn was sick bro”). Stoked: Pronounced like “soaked” but with a “T.” It means pure excitement (i.e. Surfer 1: “how stoked are you to hit the waves today?” Surfer 2: “beyond stoked”).

Why do surfers say Yew?

Another widely used term for surfers is “YEW!”, which is an indicator that a large wave has been spotted, however mostly shouted while a surfer is catching or has recently finished riding a wave.

What is a kook in surfing?

Kook, noun. Pronunciation: kük: An individual with no understanding of the social and sartorial norms of surfing. In the water, a kook’s cluelessness can aggravate or endanger other surfers; on occasion, kooks can even be recognized solely by the faux pas they commit out of the ocean.

What is a Barney in surfing?

But where does the word come from? Outside the context of surfing, ‘Barney’ has to be one of the funniest insults. After all, it’s just someone’s first name. But among surfers, a Barney is universally a beginner, someone who doesn’t belong. Like kook, but not tossed around so much that it loses meaning.